Love it or Louvre it, or where to find a moment of silence in Paris

I’ve been to Paris twice now. The first time, back in 2001, I was there for a week and a half just hanging out, drinking pastis in basement jazz bars, running through the cobbled streets in the rain, practicing my french on bored Parisian check out girls. I was a proper backpacker, staying in a hostel and making friends with fellow indie travellers until I felt it time to leave. One guy I met, a Canadian, had another friend who was house sitting in the Marais in a flat as beautiful as the one in Taken. Another, an English dude, was in Paris to spend time with his daughter. Me, I was there to wander the streets and see the sights.

And because I wanted to see everything in Europe in three months (bless) I had to be judicious about which sights to pay for. So I picked one of the big ones and said, “next time” to the rest. Versailles won.

So next time came well over ten years later, and this time the Louvre was our must-see. So, what did I learn about the Louvre that I can pass on to you?

I think this calls for a list!

  1. Don’t stand in the queue. Buy your tickets in advance!
  2. Arrive at your alloted time and sail by the line people in your very special lane.
  3. Get one of their brochure mappy things. You’ll need it because there are over half a million things to look at from art to objects to cities. Literally.
  4. No matter what anyone says: see the Mona Lisa. It IS that impressive. It IS mobbed with people. And who cares? It’s the most famous work of art in the world. Ignoring it is just lame. It’s like going to New York and not going to Times Square. Has to be done at least once.
  5. Pick a part of the museum far from the great ML and head there for some solitude.

After fulfilling #1 on the list above by purchasing our tickets at the billetterie spectacles at FNAC in Forum des Halles…

… we had just enough time to grab some lunch before our timed visit to the House of the Mona Lisa. The walk back to the Musée revealed more of Paris’ rich history.

The Fountaine des Innocents is the oldest monumental fountain in Paris. It’s kind of a big deal, having Pierre Lescot’s name attached to it. Did you know he was the architect in charge of a little museum called the Louvre?

What a coincidence!

And speaking of, we’re heading there right now. Follow me!

Item #2 on the love it or Louvre it list, the special advance ticket line was VIP only. There may as well have been a red carpet. We strolled in the pyramid and down the escalator, snapping pics along the way.

As you can see, I prefer to look up. Less people up there. How may of us take photographs of the underside of escalators?

I’m not going to lie. It’s busy in the atrium under the Pyramid, known as Hall Napoléon. And somehow I managed to get a fun shot, even caught one girl’s attention. Check out the red-haired lass looking directly at me.

Spooky.

That photograph was taken whilst fulfilling #3 on the list, grabbing a mappy thing. You’re gonna need it to find the ML and the VdM (Venus de Milo to those not on a first name basis). Besides the sheer volume of artifacts contained in this horseshoe shaped museum, there are four floors. Without some sort of map… good luck!

We set off on a wander, letting the crowds go their own way. I’m not even going to pretend we knew where we were going, so just enjoy these photos and note how the crowds thin as we go (#5).

We found ourselves in the Coptic Egypt Art Gallery and the Bawit Room beyond enjoying the rebuilt Byzantine Monastery Church with one of Egypt’s greatest icons…

In complete solitude. (see above, #5)

How about a painting on wood from the Bawit Monastery, circa 8th century?

We sat alone across the room Christ and Abbot Mena from for almost ten minutes, knowing it couldn’t last forever but hoping it would.

Our secret was out. As the tourists started walking in our cozy monastery hide-out, it was time for us to leave and find the big guns. Lots and lots of  photos to come.

Melpomene, artist unknown
Apollo
Winged Victory of Samothrace, front
Winged Victory of Samothrace, back
Aphrodite (Venus de Milo)
Aphrodite, Ramses, and another dude
Left
Right
Centre
Outside Galerie d’Apollon
Slightly distorted Galerie d’Apollon

That’s only just a few of the ridiculously famous artworks you’ll stumble across in the Louvre. Even the building is art. Ceiling panels, anyone?

 

I keep my cupid above the door, too.

Ornate angel cornice? Yes, please.

Okay, no more messing around. It’s time to find the famous lady herself. If we don’t get lost (#3 again).

Maybe past these sitting Egyptian dudes?

Or perhaps through the hallway of many sphinxes?

Past this sphinx?

Okay, maybe this one…

The Great Sphinx of Tanis

Is it around this moat?

Don’t be distracted by the modern art selfies…

Oh hai!

Maybe it’s this way. After all, where there are crowds…

You’ll find Mona. (Finally, #4)

Here’s a little advice on getting your photograph of the most famous painting in the world. Treat it like a mosh pit. Everyone is jostling for their place in front of the velvet rope so you can’t be shy, though try and be nice. If the museum were smart, they could charge even more money to queue up and get your pic of this piece. Instead it’s every man, woman and child for his, her or little oneself.

  • So just walk in, say excuse me, scusami, pardone mi, pardóname, entschuldigung, sorry, whatever gets you to the front of the crush.
  • Then don’t mess around.
  • Take your photo on the highest possible setting, not JPG, but RAW, so that later you can zoom in and crop to your heart’s content.
  • Have this setting programmed before you walk up.
  • With an iphone, just take the wide shot because the zoom function blows. I relied on Instagram to make her sweet smile come to life.
  • Be polite and get yourself out of everyone else’s way as soon as possible. Believe me, they are happier to watch you leave. But don’t hang about. Want to stare at her to figure out DaVinci’s hidden messages? That’s what the internet is for.
  • Oh, and turn around:
The Wedding Feast of Cana

You’ll barely have anyone in your way to view the massive and classic Wedding Feast of Cana. You’ll probably recognize this beauty from such classes as Art 101 and Art History.

So there you go, your beginner’s guide to the Louvre. Don’t worry about trying to fit everything in. Just wander, sit every once in a while, and enjoy the view!

Oh, I forgot to add something to the list.

6.  Wear comfortable shoes. There’s no way you’re going to see it all in one day, so save something for next time!

Au revoir!

 

And so Paris…

When good Americans die, they go to Paris -Oscar Wilde

If you’ve missed me, it’s because I’m preparing some of my more recent travels for the blog. But I seem to be caught in indecision city. Australia? Seattle? Maybe that weekend in Waikiki? The confusion of what to write here has echoed in the planning for my next trip, a certain birthday coming up in a few months. Brisbane? Indonesia? A bucket list trip to Kathmandu? I want it all.

The very act of going through photographs from past trips feels almost like caffeine coursing through my veins, a heightened sense of smell, of sight allowing me anticipate the next. It’s equal parts torture and nostalgia. Perhaps that’s all travel is for me, going out into the world to execute my plan, looking back fondly later.

Who am I kidding, I love the travel part, too.

So whilst I agonize over Tijuana, Prague or Zeeland, here is the first of a few posts, snaps and snippets from two nights in Paris, which is what I shall call my book of short travel stories some day. (All rights reserved, natch.)

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Not everyone in England is lucky to live near an international airport, though most airports in England are. It’s on an island, after all, the North Sea separating it from the continent. And as an American expat, I was always so amazed at how easy and inexpensive it was to fly internationally, the travel time on a flight to Belgium taking less than rush hour traffic through Downtown LA on a Tuesday to Pasadena.

For real.

So being in Leicestershire, we have the delightful East Midlands Airport just thirty some odd minutes from our front door. It’s a small facility that used to be an RAF base, Castle Donington to be exact. It does the requisite European short-haul flights and recently even added some long haul to the mix, though I don’t think that will ever stretch to direct flights to LAX. Long of the short of it is if you’re happy for a quick hop to Spain or Paris, you’re in luck.

We chose to do a mid-week trip, thinking the crowds in the French capital may be a little more forgiving in the height of August’s peak season and knowing the locals have mostly skipped town for their summer holidays. We were partially correct, the locals had definitely split town, but the tourists were abundant.

And the nostalgia… The last time I was in Paris I stayed on the right bank in a youth hostel by the Anvers Metro, just in the foothills of romantic Montmartre and the stunning Sacré-Coeur. It was September 2001, just a three days after the 11th. It was an interesting time, with a quiet city going about its business under the watchful eye of soldiers with automatic weapons on high alert. Since then, not much has changed on that respect, though the city was far more vibrant on this visit.

Whoever does not visit Paris regularly will never really be elegant. -Honoré de Balzac

So true, Honoré, and that’s why we stayed at the delightful Hotel le Bellechasse just across the Seine on the left bank. Le Bellechasse is a boutique hotel using its Christian Lacroix designer pedigree to make it stand out in a city full of beautiful design hotels. What made this hotel stand out for us was its location only a few short steps from the Musée D’Orsay, du Louvre and the outdoor cafés of Saint-Germain des Prés. For a two-day trip we didn’t want to travel far to our tourist destinations.

We arrived late on the first night, checking in after ten PM and realizing our desire for dinner was going to go unanswered. That meant early morning hunt for un café et deux croissants. We wandered south toward Rue de Bac Metro in search of caffeine and popped into a little brasserie that served the purpose.

I’d heard somewhere that most of these little cafés and bistros, like pubs in the UK, are chains. That didn’t ruin the charm of standing at the bar with our breakfast cafe au lait. Saying à bientôt, we marched into the nearby Eric Kayser Artisan Boulanger to stock up on our continental breakfast. We had a big day ahead of us.

But first… one of my favorite things to do in a city is strolling to find a place to picnic, wandering to a local lunch spot, picking up provisions and dining al fresco. With our fresh croissants in hand, we were on a mission.

The walk from our hotel was gorgeous, bright sun and blue skies with nary a tourist in sight. The Seine shimmered its hello.

Our plan was to check out the queue at the Louvre, so what better place to plan a picnic than at Jardin des Tuileries, Louvre-side?

Flaky pastries consumed, we found where all the tourists were hiding.

Why yes, that is a queue of people snaking around the side of the pyramid, the entrance to the Louvre. Without tickets.

What are they thinking?

I’m not one to judge. The boy and I have a habit of heading to a destination without pre-booking tickets. Maybe it’s the lure of our younger years as seat of the pants travellers. It’s definitely how we’ve managed to miss out on some of the world’s greatest attractions. Like that time we went to New York just after the Statue of Liberty opened and we couldn’t get tickets to the top. Too bad. And the time we went to Paris and didn’t get our Tour Eiffel tix either.

Oh, you mean this trip?

So we weren’t going to miss out on the Louvre. Our hotel concierge gave us a tip of purchasing tickets from the counter in FNAC, a shop that sells electronics slash cultural products (yep, that’s the description, and kind of what it looks like on the inside). We did a little research and discovered the Forum des Halles was the place to go. We designed a further wander through the streets of Paris to the mostly underground des Halles, determined to find something new.

Like a different view of the Louvre.

Or a look down one of the covered arcades of le Palais-Royal, a grand palace that used to be Cardinal Richelieu’s house and was later absorbed by the crown after his death. Now it’s the home of the Ministry of Culture,  the National Library and the Constitutional Council. We chose to wander through the arcade adjacent rue de Richelieu alongside the Comedie-Française, one of France’s state-run theatres.

I feel like its worth mentioning at this point that we’d only walked a mere 3 minutes from the entrance to the Louvre. It’s impossible to visit Paris without marvelling at the history literally everywhere.

A walk about Paris will provide lessons in history, beauty, and in the point of Life. -Thomas Jefferson

C’est incroyable.

We kept walking up rue de Richelieu to rue des Petits-Champs, a street originally opened in 1634. That’s where we stumbled upon Galerie Vivienne (Metro: Bourse).

As you can see, Galerie Vivienne is one of Paris’ many covered passages with a purpose. Built in 1823, it’s now filled with boutiques and cafés fit for luxury city centre living. One might say this could be the inspiration for modern-day malls.

If only our malls looked like this.

Upon leaving Galerie Vivienne, we soon stumbled across another Notre-Dame:

Basilica Notre-Dame des Victoires, to be exact.

This little church began its life as part of a convent in 1619. King Louis XIII himself laid the cornerstone. How’s that for pedigree?

Leaving le petit Notre-Dame we made our way toward Forum des Halles via the picturesque back streets…

… past cafés that would not have looked out of place in Amsterdam or Brussels…

… to the under construction entrance to the Forum des Halles.

I took absolutely no photographs in this mainly underground expanse of shopping, cinemas and passageways to the Metro and nearby residences. It’s something out of a science fiction film, so futuristic in its retro design that I knew my sad camera phone would not do it justice, my micro 4/3rds Olympus Pen even worse.

Besides, we had a FNAC to visit and my high school french to exercise.

Bonjour, je voudrais deux billet s’il vous plait, le Louvre. -this girl

And so we walked back.

Did you know that you don’t have to wander through Paris streets to buy tickets and avoid the queue? Just head to the Carrousel du Louvre, another underground shopping mall, literally across the pavement right next door.  It even connects to the Louvre by another clever underground passage. Just head downstairs and there are museum passes ready for purchase.

Secrets travel fast in Paris. -Napoleon Bonaparte

Yes, Napoleon, but fast is not the way to see Paris. Stroll, take in, taste. That’s how you experience this city.

Next time I’ll show you there are places in the Louvre where you may actually find yourself blissfully alone.

à bientôt!

Sleat, Ardvasar and a secret hike

And so we finish the last day of our Isle of Skye adventure on the Sleat Peninsula. Sleat is well regarded as “the garden of Skye,” a badge they wear with pride. To this visitor, it was just as beautiful as the rest of the island. Just with more trees. I approve.

Shortly after arriving at our bed and breakfast, the host told us of a hike down to a secret cove where we might spot some otters. Otters, you say? I cannot say no to cute wildlife sightings. So off we went.

We were told to take a short stroll up the single track road, past farms and other vestiges of rural island life.

Then at a little sort of bridge, instead of crossing it, take the path just before it on the left.

Little bridge

It didn’t look like much at the start being heavily overgrown, however we followed it down and found the path into the leafy canyon below.

It was then we heard a waterfall, so I kept my eye out for the little otters that were known to frequent the stream.

The otters were behaving elusively, if one could behave as such, so we continued down the narrow path toward the secret cove.

A brief aside whilst we are walking down this Sleat garden path to the shores below. Upon arrival at our B&B we were quite excited. At this point in 2013, Homeleigh B&B was a small bungalow with two bed and breakfast rooms, and it turned out to our good fortune that the double bedded room was available. At the time of our visit, the proprietors were a lovely couple who were about to sell on. We didn’t think too much of it at the time as our heads were filled with notions of secret hikes to secret rocky beaches and secret otter sightings.

I bet they told that to all the guests.

Anyway, the path continued along the brooke and broke through the canopy to give us a sneak peek of our destination, complete with a view to the landscape across the loch.

And more path…

… revealed better views.

And as we peeked into the cascading waters, we thought we heard something. An exploring otter, perhaps?

Alas, scuppered again. One last look up over the ferns to the stream brought nothing but otter disappointment. (Get it? Go on, read those last two words again.)

Reaching the rocky beach was a treat. And really, that’s the best descriptor for it. It wasn’t a huge challenge considering the hike was all downhill (not looking forward to going back up) and very short. It wasn’t the most beautiful of evenings, the sky being lightly overcast which gave my photos an interesting glow around the rocks. But it couldn’t match the dramatic blue skies over Ullinish.

Yes, the beach was a treat. And it definitely looked like it was a popular hang out for the area youth.

In the town I grew up in we had a pond. And that pond had access roads we’d walk along, creating our own paths to the pond’s edge until we found the best place for our debaucherous pastimes of sitting by a bonfire drinking cheap beer and skipping stones. One summer we put up a rope swing, and henceforth that’s what the little campsite became known as: The Rope Swing.

It felt like we had a place of our own that no one knew about. Of course everybody knew about it, and on occasion the police would come to break up our revelry. As you do.

But that summer we felt invincible, as the kids who hang out on the secret cove of Ardvasar probably felt as they skipped stones and drank cheap beer amongst the rocky shore.

My partner scoped the beach for some excellent skipping stones whilst I scoped for ideal desktop background images.

And how excited was I to stumble upon proof of our otter friends.

Dinner, perhaps?

Speaking of, the evening was getting on and we spied a pub on our way in. Time to wrap up our nostalgic secret hike with the real reason why we are here:

Time to skip some stones!

 

Six! Well done. Off to the pub.

The Ardvasar Hotel is the only game in town. It’s the closest hotel to the ferry, about 15 minutes walk, easy for those who are not laden with hire car like we are. Part of me wishes I’d booked this little inn, seeing as we were having dinner and drinks there, it would have been ideal to just wander up to our room and say goodnight.

But instead we just took in the view, dining al fresco watching the skies clear to blue and the tide go out.

And of course, a little bit of Instagramming.

The cows came out at low tide, dining on some pretty tasty grasses as we dined on sausage and mash.

And finally! Some wildlife. The fierce pub cat we shall call Stan.

Saying goodnight to Stan, we walked back up the short hill to our bed and breakfast. I’d like to say that it was a relaxing evening in our comfortable en suite room, however, upon returning to the Homeleigh, our hosts informed us that we were not allowed to use the ceiling fan, nor the pedestal fan. You see, her sick mother (bless) was in the room below and she couldn’t sleep through the noise of the fans.

Now I can’t sleep without the noise of fans, and it was hot as balls (excuse my French) so we were at a moral standoff. The customer, they once said, is always right. So if we just put the fan on, would anyone really be the wiser? But we couldn’t be those people. You know, those people who can’t follow the rules. So wanting to be respectful for the ill mother in the room below us we did as asked.

We even tried to get some respite from heat by opening the window. Alas, it was broken and could not open! The cold showers helped, though.

Not to malign a small business, but it was miserable, and turned out to be the last time I stayed in a B&B. The experience was so terrible that I’m not really over it almost three years later.

At least I was still awake at the wee hours to take this photo out the broken window of the sun trying to set, the moon keeping me company in the illusion of night blue sky. Glass half full.

In the spirit of friendship, I have good news. The Homeleigh was indeed sold and has been taken over by another lovely couple. Recent tripadvisor research shows that the new owners are far more accomodating and have three rooms to let. No mothers to be seen. I would even consider staying again as long as I’m able to use one of the fans.

Now, who wants to take a ride on a ferry boat??

 

I’ve got one word for you: Elgol

The Isle of Skye continues to surprise and delight. It has everything you need for a well-rounded holiday: awesome countryside walks, beautiful beaches, castles and wildlife, pubs with stunning views, and Elgol.

What’s an Elgol, you ask? Well it’s a village on the shores of Loch Scavaig towards the end of the Strathaird peninsula, of course!

Let me back track a little bit. So we’d just got back to the Ullinish Country Lodge, our 3-night home on the Isle of Skye realizing that we had to check out the next morning. And we were sad. We wanted to stay longer. With nowhere to be and no forward plan other than more Scotland, why not book ourselves one more night, maybe somewhere else on this delightful island?

We chose a small 2-room B&B near the ferry terminal at Armadale. But what to do, what to explore in the mean time?

Cue Elgol. Or rather, The Road to Elgol. I don’t know if this is a thing, like the Road to Hana on Maui or the Great Coast Road in Australia, but if not, why not. Skye needs to put this on one of its “Must-Do” lists and get on that marketing because it’s a beautiful single track road through stunning countryside, around Lochs and mountains and adorable little villages that, in the sunshine and 30c temps of the day, almost made me want to move there.

You might note that I use the words beautiful and stunning a lot. I’m not a fan of repetition of words while writing. Maybe instead I’ll replace them going forward with the word chicken.

We checked out pretty early from our lodge as we wanted to get on our way.

Sunset over Ullinish

Okay, not quite that early. The above panorama is from sunset the night before. These are the photos from the morning.

Oh hai!

Anyway, we set off for our day trip.

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The chicken countryside continued its shock and awe campaign as the chicken vistas came one after the other.

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Okay, maybe chicken doesn’t work. You’ll just have to put up with beautiful and stunning.

First on our day trip to our B&B near the ferry terminal? Portree, the largest village on the Isle and only a 30 minute single track drive away. Our plan was to have an early luncheon and walkabout in Portree, then drive The Road to Elgol where we’d see if we couldn’t grab ourselves a seat on one of the boat trips that went exploring the surrounding lochs.

Portree is, how do I say this nicely… it’s a town, really THE town. So it’s very busy, especially at the height of summer. I found it a little culture shocky having just come from the serene nature and beautiful vistas of Struan. I felt like I was an alien dropped in the middle of the real-life hustle and bustle of Portree. We had a quick lunch and a beer at the Bosville Hotel and stopped in the Co-Operative for provisions. And then left.

So that, dear reader, is all I have to say about Portree. I have nothing to show you, though. Because for some reason we did not snap (or keep!) any pics in Portree. Not a one. Not even of the popular harbour. I know, I’m a little sad for myself too. Luckily photographer Gernot Keller took care of that for us (courtesy of wikipedia).

But anyway, Elgol!

From Portree to Elgol was only just over an hour, not a bad little drive. We stopped in Broadford to get the time lapse camera set up, of which you’ll get to watch in a later post, I promise!

Until then, here’s some more info on Elgol.

And yes, more seal spotting! Have you ever wondered what the difference between seals and sea lions are? I know I have.

Sea Lions have ears.

Okay, it’s a little more than that. Seals move around on their bellies and have small flippers where as sea lions walk around on their larger flippers and are really, really loud. Seals are more chill, easy-going, hang out in a little U shapes on rocks. I like seals.

So when we got to Elgol we immediately got ourselves on one of the many boat trips into Loch Scavaig so we could spot some more. A seal a day, I say.

The Loch was fairly choppy, but the ride was quite comfortable. We were heading into this little inlet off Loch Scavaig that you can barely see unless you zoom in on google maps. Go on, try it. I’ll wait here.

My co-boaters weren’t all as excited as I was.

The Cuillin Mountains were not shy. Clear skies gave us incredible views.

Now in the next photo, I’ll have to give you a bit of context. So one other reason to take a boat trip into this little cove is that there is this crazy Lochside walk. This boat will ferry you out and drop you off so you can explore more on foot.

In the next photo, if you look at the upper part of the rock, starting just above the halfway point on the photo on the left you’ll see a line in the rock, as if it were carved there for such a purpose.

Yep, that’s the trail. And its name? The Bad Step.

No thank you! I much prefered looking at the rugged shoreline rock formations from the boat, cheers.

Check out the water line on the rocks, further proof of the lack of rain — them’s drought levels!

Either that or it’s the tide. Don’t listen to me, there’s like 20 photos to go. I’ll shut up for a bit.

You can barely see him, but there’s a wee seal swimming in the next photo that finally made the unhappy green shirted boy scramble to the edge of the boat vying for a view.

My life for a telephoto! Sadly my Olympus Pen only has a pancake lens. Makes travelling a hell of a lot easier and my day packs lighter.

But seals.

I can see why they like this little protected cove. The water is far calmer and except for the annoying boat or two, incredibly quiet.

Note the little building in the photograph above. That’s the Loch Coruisk Memorial Hut. Hiking enthusiasts are dropped off at a little metal dock on the shore for their day of fun in the Cuillin Hills surrounding Loch Coruisk which is just on the other side of those rocks on the left.

The hut itself was built as a memorial to two hikers who lost their lives on Ben Nevis in the 1950s. Apparently it has two rooms and can sleep up to nine, in case you fancy a relax after hiking the Bad Step.

Oh! And we spotted sea birds. I think this is a flock of black guilles, if you are into that kind of thing.

After checking out the seals and mountain views, we headed back to shore. Elgol Harbour was bustling!

Note the girls in wetsuits. Yes the water is that cold.

I highly recommend the Bella Jane for your Loch Scavaig seal stalking and hiking jaunt. They were super friendly and offer a bunch of services. We chose the £18pp 1.5hr Mini Return Trip which doesn’t allow a stop off to explore Loch Coruisk which suited us just fine.

We jumped back in the car for a trip up to the top of the hill for a picnic with our Portree Co-Operative finds. The flies weren’t nearly as bad by the shore. But the views, they were, yet again, stunning.

And that, my friends, is the delightful Elgol overlooking Loch Scavaig, with views of the Cuillin Range. I hope you enjoyed this little detour on our way to the Hottest B&B in Scotland. And I don’t mean that in a good way.

Say no more.

Never mind the Brexit, today’s all about Scotland

My phone blew up this morning over Britain leaving the European Union. Or rather, the referendum vote to leave. Like most Londoners, if you look at the map, I would also have voted to stay. As did Scotland. After all, they just voted two years ago to stay in the United Kingdom, and now the ungrateful Britons do this to them?

You know what I say, Scotland? Get thee to the beach!

If you are visiting Castle Dunvegan, you would be doing yourselves a disservice to not pop up to the beautiful little beach at the tip of the peninsula in Claigan aptly named Coral Beach. It’s just a 10 minute drive. We came across a family who walked from the castle – and being the good samaritans we are, we shoved the family of four in our rental and drove them back to the Dunvegan car park. After all, it was 30F and no shade. Living in Los Angeles, I know what that’s like. The sunburn alone…

Here’s how you get to Coral Beach.

From the Dunvegan Castle car park, take a right and keep going. The single track road will take you to, well, the end of the single track road. There’s a car park there. Shove your vehicle up against the hedges and be ready. There are flies a plenty ready to become your very best friend.

It’ll then be a nice 1 mile stroll to the beach. Takes about 25 minutes. In the hot, burning sun? Feels like forever. Don’t forget your water! Hydration is key.

Speaking of, there’s a little stream that needs crossing. I can imagine this being an issue if there has been recent rain.

Like most of the Isle of Skye, this is crofting land. Crofting, if you haven’t seen me define it for you before, dear reader, is the traditional social system in Scotland for farming. A croft is a farm. So on that croft you might find either cows or sheep. And on this out and back trail you may run in to either.

The sheep on this croft were smart. They found whatever shade they could, I imagine, in order to avoid the blinding sun. Which for us made a beautiful beach day and stunning clear blue skies almost unheard of in Scotland.

Turning back to look where we came from, you can see that the trail is really quite pronounced thanks to the sheep tracks. Loch Dunvegan in the background.

You come to the top of a little hill and voila – ahead you can see the beach as it sits at the mouth of Loch Dunvegan. The far island is Isay, one of many uninhabited islands off of the Isle of Skye.

In fact, right next to Isay is a small island called Clett. Apparently legend (and the BBC) has it that singer Donovan owned it and sold it off foot by foot to tourists. You couldn’t make any changes, couldn’t build, stay overnight or alter the island in any way. I imagine it’s a lot like owning a star.

Note the animal tracks. They also like going to the Coral Beaches.

A brief look back at the track and the tourists who decided to climb the hill. Better they stay there and not clutter the beach, I say.

There were a fair amount of people on the beach. Some who’d climbed up the rocky outcrop behind. Locally this outcrop is known as Ghrobain.

The little island out in the Loch in direct view of the beach is called Lampay. Only 150m or so offshore, it could be an ideal swim. Apparently at low tide a causeway is revealed so you can walk across.

I have this thing with sticking my toes in water. You may have seen me do this at Loch Lommond. The water there was pretty chilly. Here? Downright icey despite the afternoon sun.
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It even turned my toes blue!

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Jk.

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With the skies so blue reflecting in the sun drenched waters, you’d almost mistake this place for a tropical locale. Or perhaps more Mediterranean. Maybe even Spain.

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The Coral Beach gets its name for being made of coral. No, that’s not true. It’s actually made of little bleached skeletons of Red Coralline seaweed and bits of little colorful shells.

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A panoramic view almost shows how beautiful it is here. LA’s beaches wishes they were this stunning.

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Being so unbelievably hot for Scotland, we’d noticed a distinct lack of something incredibly important to hot weather.

Beer.

Where are the pubs?

You’re in the countryside. On an island. Off the Highlands. Of course there isn’t a pub on every corner, no local in which to bide your time. And to get to the nearest one? You have to drive. I didn’t rate our chances on single track roads against drunk drivers. Though oddly you never see a car in a ditch on the side of the road.

So we decided to chance it at the Stein Inn, the oldest Inn on the Isle of Skye, says its website. And I believe it. To get there is a 20-30 minute drive (depending on the sheep in the road) from Dunvegan Castle on the A850, then the delightfully tiny B886. Mind the cattle grates in the road.

The Stein Inn is quaintly perched on the shores of aptly named Loch Bay on the Waternish Peninsula. The B886 will drop you directly in front of the pub. Car park is behind.

Proof of the age of the Inn hung over the doorway. 1790, not too shabby.

The pub is a small, cozy wood paneled affair, everything you’d expect a pub in the far reaches of Scotland to be. And today, on this heat wave day of days, it was bloody hot. The publican was not happy, practically dripping in sweat, using bar towels to wipe down his face each chance he got. I doubt he’s usually this grumpy. Tolerance of heat is likely something Scotts don’t usually have in spades.

I knew there was only one tipple that could take away the woes of a summer day by the shore of Loch Bay.

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Glorious cool and refreshing lager. Stella, you charmer.

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This fair haired lass was taking a well deserved nap – I hope she was wearing sunscreen!

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If there were any doubts of the tropical nature of this quiet corner of Skye, this palm tree proved it.

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To give you an idea of where we now are, the hilly land jutting out across the bay is the Dunvegan Peninsula. Just over that hill? Claigan and the Coral Beach.

Kids play on the boat ramp, enjoying a cool off in the Loch.

You can barely see it, but there are a couple of seals out in the calm Loch enjoying the sun. And despite the grumble on the barkeep’s face, he had to have been enjoying it too.

Maybe just a little?

Dunvegan Castle and Gardens, my version of a photo tour

If you are going to the Isle of Skye, go to Dunvegan Castle. It’s a must-do on all the hip kids’ travel lists. Besides, the Clan MacLeod is kind of a big deal around these parts, and this castle has been the clan’s seat for over 800 years. In fact, it’s the 27th Chief we have to thank for opening up his home to the public in 1933.

Thanks, Chief!

The Castle is located in the north west corner of Skye, just one mile north of the village of Dunvegan. Lucky for us, we were only a 20 minute drive away.

So let’s get started!

I noticed immediately how busy it was, chock full of tourists. Although happy for the clan getting all that entrance money (£12 from each of us for entrance to the castle and gardens), it did mean that I had lots of strangers in my photographs. I am one of those photogs that will wait until the tourists clear the area. Sometimes I am not so lucky. This guy below looking at camera features heavily in a few of my pics.

Hello!

If I may be honest, I am not a fan of pebble dash. And at some point in this castle’s illustrious renovation history, someone decided to render the exterior in little tiny pebbles. Pebble dash may have been de rigeur at one point, however I prefer my castle exteriors to be clad in big-ass stones. Perhaps this is the working man’s castle. I’m not judging.

The inside was pretty cool. Lots of museum pieces collected over the years, including some Jacobite relics. They were especially proud of their famous visitors. Photographs of Queen Elizabeth II and Sir Walter Scott lined the walls.

I was more excited about what was happening outside. Lochs and more Lochs.

It was at Castle Dunvegan that I learned about my iPhone’s panorama function. I am hooked.

Now, about those gardens.

There are apparently 1 hectare of land to wander. Although I have no way of measuring a hectare in my brain, I can say the gardens were quite compact, with a few different areas to explore from formal gardens to the vegetable garden. I really enjoyed wandering the more wild, natural parts. The waterfalls were pretty neat too. Nice gardens. Five stars.

Considering how hot it was, the gardens did offer lovely pops of shade to hide in.

And little paths to wander.

Oh, and I mentioned waterfalls. My Olympus Pen did the waterfalls no justice.

The gardens lead to the water where, if you time it correctly, there will be a boat trip in your future!

I was filled with glee to discover that they run seal boat spotting trips on Loch Dunvegan for only £7.50pp. And as we wandered up, we found a boat practically waiting just for us.

View of the boat launch from the castle grounds.

The Clan McLeod’s motto is “Hold Fast”, so this salty gent’s tee shirt is appropriate.

The boat was quite small, so if you are squeamish about water or wake or whatever, these little motor boats might not be for you.

All the more closer to the seals, I say!

Oh, and how about a couple of poorly shot videos?

We got pretty close up to these gentle beasts. Obviously they are quite used to the tourist boats. I wonder if they are as excited to see us as we are them?

 

Lone seal

Something tells me no.

After all that seal excitement, it was time to head back to shore.

Heading back to the castle, I shot off a few choice pics using some of the art scene filters the Olympus Pen has on offer, to varying degrees of success.

And just when I thought I’d got the shot of the day, another tourist photobomb. Such is life in Scotland. It’s kind of a big deal.

 

Here’s a link to Dunvegan Castle’s website for all their opening, closing and other dealings. Pick up a tea towel in the shop! Super cute and easy to pack reminder of your trip in the north west corner of Skye.

Next time I’ll let you in on one of Skye best kept secrets. What’s that, you say?

You’ll just have to wait and see.

Walking and whisky in Scotland

Did you know that most distilleries in Scotland have a claim to fame? The most this or the highest that. Well, Talisker’s claim to fame is that it’s the oldest working distillery on the Isle of Skye.

More on that later, though. It’s time for a walk.

So in my last post, I introduced you, dear reader, to our accommodation for our three night Skye adventure, the delightful Ullinish Country Lodge on the western coast of the Isle of Skye. We’d just spent the good part of a day driving up through the Highlands, had a wicked five course dinner worthy of a Michelin Star (imho) and a restless night’s sleep. That’s right, what a shocker, I had a crap night’s sleep. I’m pretty sure it had everything to do with the fact that, at mid summer, the sun really never set before it was time for it to rise.

Never mind that, we had an island to explore!

Breakfast consisted of Benedict for me (of course) and a coffee. We were planning to tackle the delightful walk to the tidal island of Oronsay, the trail head just a short stroll from the Lodge.

Oronsay is a small hilly island inhabited by grazing sheep. And, my crafty research has turned up that Oronsay is a Norse word for tidal island. There are two around Skye alone, and one further south that comes up when you google maps it.

Go on, check it out, I’ll wait for you.

We double and triple checked when high tide was to make sure we didn’t get accidentally trapped on the island with the sheep. Just in case we brought snacks.

The 3.2mi (5k) walk started, for us, at the car park of the lodge.

A delightful morning greeted us as we hit the Oronsay Path.

There she is, our destination: that little cliff just above that cottage.

A sign at the kissing gate directed us off this patch of road.

We read that the walk could get muddy depending on the whether, but since it hadn’t rained in days, our boots remained unsullied. In case you were wondering, lack of rain is a strange occurrence for Scotland.

We came upon a really beautiful, picturesque gate which lead to the main event of the walk. But my lovely other half is in the pic, and he would absolutely hate me for posting it.

You’re welcome, babe.

And past the gate it just gets better and better:

We crested the hill topped with sheep to find Oronsay just hanging out, waiting to be climbed.

But first! The tidal causeway and Oronsay Beach.

It looks much smaller from far away. This causeway was not in any danger of flooding during our hike. (Phew!)

Can’t stop now, the peak beckons!

A brief look back to Ullinish shows why the Isle of Skye is known for being rugged and wild. Note the little trail created by the sheep. Yeah, we totally followed that.

The views up top are pretty great. You get clear vistas of the other small islands in the lochs as well as to the hilly northwestern Duirinish peninsula with villages on it with such names as Roag and Skinidin.

Wicked.

I didn’t realize when taking the photos of the little pink flowers that sheep poo was everywhere. My face was inches away.

Inches…

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I wish you could see this panorama full size, cause it’s awesome. I just don’t know how to make that happen on this blog thing. Do you??

A few more pics before heading back of the Minginish peninsula.

And with a sigh we head back. We still had a couple hours before the tide thought about coming in, but didn’t want to chance it. Who knows how friendly the sheep actually are???

Remember I mentioned the pretty little gate? Here she is.

It’s much prettier looking the other way.

Ullinish may not be much, but she is beautiful. I don’t know if I could live here year round, especially with all the rain but what a lovely place to visit.

Oh yeah, and there’s the whiskey!

Talisker is the first Scotch I’ve ever had that I actually liked. In fact, I recommend to anyone who does not like whiskey: get thee to a distillery and do a proper tour! Get someone to teach you how to drink it, what the nuances are, the differences before and after you add water or ice or when to swirl or savor. You’ll be glad you did.

Talisker is the oldest working distillery on the Isle of Skye. It’s on Loch Harport in Carbost, a short drive away from our Lodge. Yes, I planned it that way. Never too far from the whiskey.

We took the fancy tour, a two hour walk through and tutored whiskey tasting that cost us £25pp. It now costs £35 and imho it’s worth the extra £££ – go on, splash out! It’s really fun.

They ask you not to take photos on the tour, if only to protect everyone from blowing up. Camera shutters and the Angels Share do not mix!

The water they use in the distilling process comes straight from the moors above. Our tour guide opined that if it didn’t rain soon they would have to stop production.

Noooo!

We were given 6 of their malts taste. If I recall correctly, they had a new make (the clear, moonshine looking drop upper left), then the 10 year, 18, 25, Distillers Edition and the non-chill filtered 57 North.

My fave? The 18, for sure. Highly recommended.

After that wonderful morning walk and an afternoon of whiskey tasting, it was time to relax. On the menu tomorrow? Castles, beaches and sea lions.

Oh my!